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| Jacket and shorts |
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| Me in the jacket and shorts |
Instead of trying to adjust a Vogue, McCall's, Butterick or Simplicity(the Big Four) pattern to fit your body. Lutterloh patterns are based on just two measurements:
- your bust
- your hip
They call it the Golden Rule I call it "Getting My Garment Sewing Mojo Back."
The beauty of the Lutterloh system is that each pattern is usable for many sizes.
I lost the system in my move down here to La Paz. I went back to the Big Four patterns.
I started to feel like a misshapen freak!
Nothing fit well. I lost confidence in my ability to sew.
The Big Four prices got higher and the quality went down. For years I have been unable to get a good fit, I have gained weight and I am short.Trying to find patterns that looked good and would not need lots of changes was near impossible.In a few posts back, I showed off my 5 piece mini wardrobe I made entirely from Lutterloh patterns for a Pattern Review contest. I had not used the system in 20 years. I was able to get started again and made those five items plus 4 more, with more on my cutting table waiting to be made.
Now I feel like I can sew anything again!
Here are the tools you need to make a basic vest or any of the patterns
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Your Tools:
Velum paper, or any wide paper, Special Tape measure, a piece of foam
to stick push pin in, tape to hold the pattern in place, A pencil, a
seam gauge for adding seam allowance. A design from the collection.The miniature pattern and tailor's curve.
Here I am connecting the dots and making a basic vest:
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I fold the page so I isolate the pattern piece I want. I insert the pin
in a hole near my bust measurement in cm. I swing the tape along a
line radiating from the dot. The dot is numbered. I draw a dot on the
paper that corresponds to the number on the pattern and my tape. Dots
above the waist use the bust measurement, dots below the waist use the
hip measurement.
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The left image shows all of the dots. You can see the shape of the
full-sized vest. The right image shows the dots connected and the seam
allowance added. You can see my drafting does not look like an
engineer's. But the pattern fits!
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| Here I am in the muslin. It needs a little tweaking at the shoulders. And here is the finished vest. The sun was so bright I had to close my eyes! |
This is not a sales pitch paid for by the company. I am just so happy to be able to make clothing I like and that looks good.
All of the pattern pieces are interchangeable. Like the sleeve from this blouse? Or the hem treatment from those pants? Just draft them along with the other patterns pieces you need to complete your look.
After doing some "snoop shopping" on luxury resort wear sites, I have come up with some ideas for my cooler weather wardrobe. Then I compare the silhouettes in my Lutterloh binder to see if I can re-create the look.
Over 200 patterns come in the basic binder, and then supplements are available every quarter. So the latest trend is at your finger tips. Each supplement has 40 new patterns, and a supplement costs less than one Vogue pattern.
Here is the Lutterloh US site complete with two short videos that tell the story.
Here is what I am working on this week.
I call it the Pineapple Express:
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| I am making the blouse on the left and the pants on the right. the fabric is embroidered linen. |
Watch this blog for updates!












Wow Susan!
ReplyDeleteYou continue to amaze me with your talent. I had never heard of that system until I saw your collection. Then...wouldn't you know it...there will be a demo on Kauai while I am on the mainland!
I am getting my courage up to make a skirt. If that works, then who knows!!!
Take good care.
Warmest aloha,
Melissa
I have the Lutterloh system and tried it once but it didn't work for me. I will try again once I become more proficient at sewing - you have inspired me - and I do love the patterns. What a great job you have done and I am sure there is a sense of pride at having "drafted" the pattern yourself - so to speak.
ReplyDeleteBeaJay and Melissa,
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your kind words.
You will both love using the Lutterloh system.
I am free of those awful, and expensive patterns that need so much altering.
It really is not difficult to draft the patterns, and sewing them is so nice because the pattern pieces fit together.
And yes I feel a sense of pride and power!
I keep my Vogue Sewing Book close at hand, and in case I need direction on construction.
Choose a simple pattern and get going. You will love it!
In high school, all my friends thought I was 'exotic' because I had all these amazing clothes that no one else could have. (I have since forgiven you for the camp shirt with daisies over the breasts, really.)
ReplyDeleteYou're amazing, Mom.
WOW - I am impressed!
ReplyDeleteGreat blog Susan, keep it up, I would like to follow.
ReplyDeleteAgreed: great blog, Susan, thanks! You really are getting me back to Lutterloh - and sewing. Are the lingerie patterns in a particular book or scattered around? I don't remember seeing any.
ReplyDeleteHappy Holidays Annie,
DeleteMy current supplement, from the fall has a robe and night gown, and bathing suit which could also be panties.
the designs are always scattered. I sent an email to Frank and Marcus Lutterloh about some improvements they could make in the system, and what designs are in demand. Let's see what happens.
Hello! I'm french (Réunion Island) and I'm using Lutterloh's pattern too.
ReplyDeleteI love vintage patterns, and Lutterloh's pattern are so many and so beautiful!
But when I'm drafting my pattern, it doesn't fit well together every time. Sometimes I have to "reorganize" my dots... Why??
Canie thanks for stopping.
DeleteI have the same problem. I use the curve and try to make the best match up that I can. I study the miniature, and just make my enlarged piece looks as close to that as I can!
Hello:) following your blog from PatternReview.. Thank you so much for your comments on my LBD.. I blog over here - TheHobbyHarbor. I browsed your blog.. INteresting sewing posts:)It would be nice to have you visit there and follow too..
ReplyDeleteDiva, I visited your blog and I am following you as well. Thanks fo stopping.
ReplyDelete